2 man saw storage?

[MNSHIELD]

Hey folks,

With as much knowledge and quantity of saw owned by individuals in this community, we must have some good ideas on how to store multiple saw.

Old saw filer shacks show most saws stood on end with teeth to the wall and sometimes teeth out.

Saws hung on nails only takes a person so far before it get dangerous for hands and saws.

I am wondering what folks are doing for something like 30 saws that are in rotation of use and needing filing?

THANKS, MNSHIELD

Pics for fun!

[sumnergeo]

I have a two-foot long, 3/4 inch galvanized pipe mounted about six inches away from and parallel to the wall. I cut pieces of metal coat hangers about six inches long and bend them to hang over the pipe and through a hole on the end of the saw. Teeth are toward the wall. I can also hang sheaths next to the saws. It will hold about 15 saws. I hang both two-man and D-handles on the pipe.

Hope this helps.

[Jim_Thode]

For active storage where you need to have ready access to any one saw all the time it is hard to beat the classic method:

For easier and more efficient use of space that is not as accessible, just a single nail on a wall can hold several saws. If they are sharp the teeth can be alternated left and right.

[PATCsawyer]

Old-time method with teeth pointing toward wall. Users and filed saws on left, damaged saws waiting for the welder on far right, one mans in the middle

[sumnergeo]

I was expecting a response to your noodles - they are really long and uniform in length! Nice job!

I was also wondering how wide they were. for a Simonds 324 (,090" + .012" set on each side = .0114" wide). Yours look wider. I also noticed whiskers on one side of each noodle which I interpret to mean that the rakers are a skosh higher on that side, maybe only .004" below the cutters. Or, the cutters are slightly shorter on one side.

I've had this happen to my cutters and found that the ears on my jointer were enough worn that the file didn't sit exactly at 90 degrees. Try putting a small square on your jointer file to see if it is square.

Somebody somewhere must have said this, but sometimes the little things count!

[Jim_Thode]

I also noticed whiskers on one side of each noodle which I interpret to mean that the rakers are a skosh higher on that side, maybe only .004" below the cutters. Or, the cutters are slightly shorter on one side.

I believe the reason some noodles show whiskers on one side is not because there is something not symmetrical with the saw or filing job but because the way a saw cuts. As the saw moves though the wood the cutters cut progressively deeper with the cutter directly in front of the raker cutting the deepest. On this saw if you could catch the noodles you would see that there are whiskers on the right side on the push stroke and on the left on the pull stroke. It is also interesting to note that the cutter directly in front of the raker almost cuts on the left side. I don't know why but at least for the major brands that is the case.

If you look close at this drawing you will note that it would show whiskers on one side of the noodle (the far side). The second cutter in front of the raker is not cutting to the depth that the raker is scooping.

[MNSHIELD]

Thanks for the ideas! I am now planning to build a hybridized style of some of the original saw filers shacks, PATCsayer's, and a gun rack. The whole thing needs to be able to be moved eventually. I now have a plan and will post some pictures when I get it finished.

I realize now that those two pictures are a little deceiving being together. The noodles came from a 6' Craftsman Big Timber western Felling saw, and single bucked from a fresh 22" Tulip Poplar. The saw cuts really well and was very fast is the soft wood. I was putting about as much down pressure as I could on the saw as I was just having fun and enjoying the green wood. .010" set / .012" rakers.

I have run saws that have pulled clean noodles and have been very smooth in the cut. I understand the idea of the jointer possibly not being square to the plane of the teeth, but I slope file with and Andersons gauge to the finished raker height and wouldn't that square the raker tip to the plane of the saw tooth if held tight? I could see that being more of an issue with the jointed teeth heights if the jointer was out of square. This saw also cut straight in a big cut. Either way I am going to take a look at my jointer, These are old tools and would not be surprised if they are not true out of the box.

Image that Jim shared is awesome to help visualize what is happening in the cut, and makes sense that one side might not get the same score depth do to the arrangement of the teeth.. I would guess that running a saw in any way other than perfectly perpendicular to the wood fiber will result in noodles having a different look and possibly pulling whiskers, or weather the sawyers sawing stroke is perfectly level or rocking through the cut.


The other saw pic is of a cut down #324, and a plumb 3.5#.

Thanks again for the ideas.

[MNSHIELD]

Update on the final saw storage rack.

I reused material from my home remodel that always seems to be going on.

Over all height 6 feet 4 inches and 39 wide and holds 37 saws.
I built it stong enough to hang, and I could stand on it.

Mnshield