Monster M tooth.

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Monster M tooth.

Postby Sawman » September 13th, 2014, 11:49 am

Can anybody give me a hand with the new beast on the block.
L1020250.JPG
A Sheffield made 6' 6" felling saw make unknown at the moment.
L1020242.JPG
Company logo could be Anderson or something. Has Sheffield and England on it.

The teeth are very poorly filed and for some reason they have taken a lot of side wall from the teeth and then made a step cut (due to bad filing) near the bottom of the gullet, a bit of a mess.
L1020252.JPG
Good gullet
L1020254.JPG
Bad gullets.
L1020253.JPG

So they all need sorting out. Now to the question, someone has set the tooth with the two cutting edges over on the same side then the other tooth set in the opersite direction. My gut feeling is that one half of the tooth is set one way and the other the other way. So that the cutter has a clean cut and not fighting the other blade (blunt side) as they move with the stroke. It has no Lightning style filing on it but just all looks very poor and in need of some tlc which it will get up in Scotland at the end of October, and won't be long now. I think one of the great things for me is I will be able (with a lot of other things of course) is that I will have a least be able to spend 2 and a half days of saw work. No distractions. Instead of an hour here and hour there. Great. Regards to all Sawman. P.S. the saw is cleaning up just fine. Not to bad.
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Gavin Longrain » September 18th, 2014, 4:01 am

Sawman wrote: P.S. the saw is cleaning up just fine. Not to bad.

From the images, the body of the saw seems clean enough. But, the teeth seem VERY pitted to me. I would be anxious the pits will become part of the edge of the tooth.
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Gavin Longrain » September 18th, 2014, 4:03 am

Sawman wrote: Now to the question, someone has set the tooth with the two cutting edges over on the same side then the other tooth set in the opersite direction. My gut feeling is that one half of the tooth is set one way and the other the other way. So that the cutter has a clean cut and not fighting the other blade (blunt side) as they move with the stroke.

I imagine you would want each point set alternately, but I wonder what more experienced filers say?
EDIT: More experienced filers ( Starling Saw ) below say: you should set these teeth NOT alternately. And now I think about the filing pattern of these teeth (with the tooth-bevels in pairs) it follows the set will be away from the tooth-bevel.
Last edited by Gavin Longrain on September 18th, 2014, 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Sawman » September 18th, 2014, 11:55 am

Thanks for that Gavin, The beast is cleaning up very well and teeth are in a better state than the photo. It did have grease on it at some stage and the metal is in a very good state but not in others. I have straightened the teeth as far as I can with a wooden base and hammer.(to help with cleaning) So your anvil will be very handy. As I will bang them straight a quick clean up on the teeth and then get started on it. All the main saws I will be bringing will be in much the same state, cleanish body rusty teeth. Not long now. Regards Sawman
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Starling_Saw » September 18th, 2014, 5:55 pm

Each pair is set the same direction. Example shown is an aggressive M tooth for competition. The tooth to the far right has had the set jointed lightly, and shows a little bit brighter.
John
Attachments
MTooth.jpg
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Sawman » September 20th, 2014, 2:17 pm

Thanks for that John. So the saw was set correctly. I think you can see my point with it though. I will tell you how the saw goes when I get all cleaned and sharpened plus a new handles. Thanks again for your help.
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby TheLastAxeman » April 23rd, 2016, 2:50 pm

What is ''Lightning style filing''? Does it have to do with boynton's saws? How do you file an M tooth? What does the cutting process look like and how does it differ from peg and raker saws?
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Starling_Saw » April 23rd, 2016, 5:01 pm

You would normally get chips instead of ribbons. They are much harder to push/pull than a traditional Peg and Raker saw. When you want to saw with less effort you just pick up on the saw, much like a carpenters handsaw, with less teeth in the cut. Opposite of a peg tooth saw, where if you pick up on the saw the Rakers will hang. They don't really need any real sawing technique, just brut strength to saw with them. When the modern pro timber sports competitors started using them, you would only see competitors that looked like football linebackers. But hand those same people a peg tooth saw they would have trouble sawing as they tried to lift the saw during the cut to go faster, and being thinner plate they would have the saw looking like a pretzel in no time.
As for filing them, I used a "Cant Saw" File, and normally only filed the inside of the tooth. If you file the face of tooth you make the gullet larger, lengthen the pitch of the teeth, and shorten the life of the saw. Modern competitors have started to get away from them as they have a short life, and not everyone is 300lbs of pure muscle to run one.
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby Gavin Longrain » April 24th, 2016, 4:36 am

Starling_Saw wrote: When you want to saw with less effort you just pick up on the saw, much like a carpenters handsaw, with less teeth in the cut.

What do you mean by pick up on the saw? Do you mean lift the saw a little so it does not keep in full contact with bottom of kerf?
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Re: Monster M tooth.

Postby PATCsawyer » April 24th, 2016, 5:14 am

John - do you overset the teeth a little and then back hone the exact set? What do you use to add more set? Grip setter, wrest, hammer?
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