My Saw Kit

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My Saw Kit

Postby DucksinOR » September 17th, 2016, 9:22 am

Hi,

I am brand new to crosscuts but I have been interested in traditional woodworking for over 10 years.

I picked up this nice tuttle/champion tooth 66" bucking saw at an antique store and it came with the 2 handles. The only marking on the saw is N. 438 stamped on both ends of the blade. It has no etching but it is crescent taper ground. One of the handles is marked Atkins 24 and the other is unmarked.
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I spent about an hour cleaning the saw and it looks pretty good with no major pitting.

My next post will include some of the tools I have gotten to sharpen the saw.
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby Jim_Thode » September 17th, 2016, 9:37 am

Looks like it could be a good user saw with a little time sharpening. You can find pretty much every thing you would need to sharpen a saw at:
http://www.bchw.org/Tech%20tips/Crosscu ... pening.htm

Jim
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby DucksinOR » September 17th, 2016, 9:40 am

I have also gotten a Disston short jointer/raker gauge along with some saw stakes (including a really nice looking blue Atkins one), a saw set (for normal saws) and a tooth bender off of e-bay I only intend to use the jointer/raker gauge and saw set but the lot was cheaper than buying individual tools.

On the Disston jointer there is a little knob that rotates and is marked with different numbers. Do you have any idea what that is for? I am guessing it is a pin gauge of some sort but have no idea what the markings mean.

For my anvil I have a 2.5 lb. hammer head with the face ground smooth and for my setting/swedging hammer I bought a 5 oz Estwing tack hammer that I am going to add some weight to to bring it up to around 8 oz. I am thinking of wrapping the center of the head with some wire. Any thoughts?

Saw spiders seemed really expensive so I am making one out of a heavy duty fork. I still need to cut the one leg short and bend the handle some more bending.

I also have most of the supplies to build my saw vice. Now I just need to build it.

Any thoughts, suggestions or tips would be great.
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby PATCsawyer » September 19th, 2016, 10:36 am

I ground a 15° bevel on my hammer/anvil face and rounded the bevel edge with some sandpaper.

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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby DucksinOR » October 16th, 2016, 7:17 am

Thank you everyone with the help so far. I finished up my saw vise last night and made a couple passes on over the teeth with my jointer. I will try to post pictures later. I need to grind the edge off of the end of my jointing file and break off the tang. How do you do that? I don't have a bench grinder. Will a coarse grit sharpening stone work? Thank you.

Matthew
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby Jim_Thode » October 16th, 2016, 8:27 am

DucksinOR wrote:Thank you everyone with the help so far. I finished up my saw vise last night and made a couple passes on over the teeth with my jointer. I will try to post pictures later. I need to grind the edge off of the end of my jointing file and break off the tang. How do you do that? I don't have a bench grinder. Will a coarse grit sharpening stone work? Thank you.

Matthew


Using shims or the adjusting screw(s) on your jointer you may be able to adjust the amount of flex in the file so that the sharp edges or ends of the file will not hurt.
Jim
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby PATCsawyer » October 16th, 2016, 3:10 pm

I safe the corners of my mill files with a belt sander. An old grinding wheel or angle grinder will also work.
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby DucksinOR » November 26th, 2016, 5:44 pm

Thank you everyone for the replies. I just finished sharpening and swedging all the rakers. Now all I have to do is point up and set the cutter teeth and then it is testing time.

Jim thank you for the link to your website. The pictures of different swedged rakers really helps
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby DucksinOR » December 27th, 2016, 6:48 pm

Hi everyone,

Thank you for all your help. I finished sharpening my saw last night. I swedged the rakers and sharpened it 12/12 . It took a lot of pounding to get the rakers to bend over. For sharpening up the cutters I pretty much followed the original geometry of the teeth, except instead of following the more rounded profile of the teeth I sharpened them straight (more like lance teeth). What do you think?
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Here is a picture of my saw vice. The bottom cleat is screwed to my work bench and there are hinges connecting it to the upper piece so that I can tilt it back to point up the teeth. The top is 2 2x12's screwed together.
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When I got home from work, my sister and I went and tested it out on some dead blown down incense cedars. The biggest cut was around 13 inches in diameter. It cut really well. I don't have any pictures of it cutting but here are some pictures of some of the noodles it pulled even in dead dryer wood.
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Re: My Saw Kit

Postby Jim_Thode » December 27th, 2016, 9:33 pm

Matthew,
Your sharping job looks good and the proof is in your test cut.

I think you decision to not worry about rounding the lower part of the cutters is good. The only part that really makes a difference is about the tip 1/8" and that looks good. You may have had an easier time swaging the rakers if you had deepened the V in the rakers so that the section of metal you were bending over was smaller. Generally a three corner file in the V would make the tip angle about right.

Notice how this raker is filed compared to yours.
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Jim
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