Simonds saw?

Post here if you are trying to identify a saw, or want to discuss specific features of saws that can be used for identification.

Re: Simonds saw?

Postby Jim_Thode » August 17th, 2016, 9:58 pm

bsk_crosscutter wrote:Hi,

Does anybody knows how is it done that air quenching??
Is it heated to cheery red and then left cooling at room temperature, or it is cooled with any forced air flow??

Thanks


Jim Taylor uses a blast of air from a air hose to quench. I believe that it really depends on the steel, some can be air quenched, some water, some oil. If the exact type of steel and properties are not known you could do some testing and see what works.
Jim
User avatar
Jim_Thode
 
Posts: 675
Joined: June 28th, 2012, 9:34 am
Location: Onalaska, Washington State, USA

Re: Simonds saw?

Postby Dale Torma » August 18th, 2016, 6:18 pm

Mr Starling gave me some tips on heat treating saw steel, it doesn't have to be quenched, just heated to the correct temp to draw some hardness. Maybe he will chime in.
I have 6 very hard Simonds 221 saws, hardened for frozen hardwood and I have to soften them a bit with heat or I snap tips off when setting and swaging .
Dale Torma
 
Posts: 122
Joined: April 18th, 2016, 11:18 am

Re: Simonds saw?

Postby Jim_Thode » August 18th, 2016, 10:02 pm

Dale Torma wrote:Mr Starling gave me some tips on heat treating saw steel, it doesn't have to be quenched, just heated to the correct temp to draw some hardness. Maybe he will chime in.
I have 6 very hard Simonds 221 saws, hardened for frozen hardwood and I have to soften them a bit with heat or I snap tips off when setting and swaging .


Heat treating to harden and heat treating to temper or soften are completely different processes with opposite results. Hardening is commonly used on racing saws but not normally used on vintage saw. It could be used on vintage saws but is just is not a normal process. To harden, steel is heated to cheery red then quenched (cooled quickly). After it is hardened the steel may be very hard and brittle and for most uses it must be tempered to make less brittle and soft enough so that it can be sharpened. Racing saw may be left so hard that they can't be filed but must be sharpened with a diamond hone. If a racing saw needs more work then honing it can be tempered till it is soft enough to file then re-hardened and re-tempered the the desired hardness.
Jim
User avatar
Jim_Thode
 
Posts: 675
Joined: June 28th, 2012, 9:34 am
Location: Onalaska, Washington State, USA

Re: Simonds saw?

Postby Dale Torma » August 19th, 2016, 9:04 am

In this saw steel, it is already hard, and heating to the proper color or temperature softens it. No quenching, etc. It is not exactly the same as tool steel.
No need to over think it. Soften it to the point the teeth will not snap when set and call it good.
Dale Torma
 
Posts: 122
Joined: April 18th, 2016, 11:18 am

Previous

Return to Saw ID

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron