Wood frame bucksaws

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Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Dale Torma » December 20th, 2016, 9:08 am

I recently acquired a couple 36 inch new old stock bowsaw blades, one is Norwegian the other Danish, I wanted to make a old style bucksaw in the Finnish pattern. My buddy and I went out in the woods for the day out by some yellow birch and cedar. While he started a fire and cooked some food, I proceeded to make a frame out of a small yellow birch tree. I had an axe, a small Sierra saw and my puuko knife, with a bowsaw blade and string coiled in my pack.
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I hade to use 2 trees for a vise to split the ends and carve the crossbar mortises.
Mortises are a huge pain to cut with a knife, even a screwdriver would have worked better, but the saw turned out well and cuts fast. I had to cook in some pine tar at home to stop the checking while the frame dries.
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After posting a picture of my saw elsewhere, Marcus Lepola from Finland sent me a picture of the Finnish style frame, so I enlarged the picture in 4 sheets of paper to make a full sized pattern for a nicer saw.
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Also here is a photo of his grandfathers saw and axe from Finland
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby sumnergeo » December 20th, 2016, 9:18 am

Looks like your blade has rakers but his is a plain-tooth blade. Either way, good looking saw.
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Jim_Thode » December 20th, 2016, 9:27 am

Good job on the saw using available materials. Very nice sled too, did you make it?
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Dale Torma » December 20th, 2016, 2:24 pm

Thanks, I made the sled, the runners were hewed to shape and bent over an open fire, the stanchion wood was cut a year previous and dried, they are hop hornbeam, the rails and deck are spruce. It is patterned after Siberian Nenets sleds, the way it is put together, with pegs and no lashing, it flexes and flows over the ground. The long front end is unweighted, so it can float and climb humps better. The skis are a big torsion spring also, very ingenious design. I copied it from pictures and made a few mistakes, but it works very well.
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Dale Torma » December 23rd, 2016, 1:50 pm

Cut some more dry jack pine this morning, can't underbuck, so I had to cut halfway through every 34 inches then when the trunk was not in a bind, roll it and finish. The chunks were heavy so I had to split them, I should have brought a larger axe. The 12/3 was at its limit. Its only about a 2.5 lb head.
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Tying the saw to the load was a bad idea, good thing I loosened the blade, the load shifted and put it in a bind.
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Jim_Thode » December 23rd, 2016, 5:15 pm

Yes, underbucking could be a pain with this saw. As long as the diameter of the log was less then the distance from the blade to the frame, the blade could be removed, placed over the log and reinstalled with the teeth up.
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Dale Torma » December 23rd, 2016, 5:37 pm

Brilliant idea Mr.Thode!
It never crossed my mind. It only takes a minute or two to change the blade. I will try that tomorrow and report back, I could cut all my cuts 1/2 or 2/3 through and switch the blade like you said and finish the cuts.
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby dayle1960 » December 24th, 2016, 6:22 pm

On a traditional bow saw, why is there one leg/arm longer than the other?
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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby Jim_Thode » December 24th, 2016, 10:37 pm

dayle1960 wrote:On a traditional bow saw, why is there one leg/arm longer than the other?


The longer handle would give the sawyer more options on where to place their hand(s). The hand placement will have an impact on how the saw cuts. With one hand on the lower part of the handle and most of the pull on that lower hand would put some down pressure on the blade and make it cut better on the pull stroke. When the saw is used with two hands, with one hand above and one below the blade the saw could be make it cut better on both the pull and push stroke. If both hands were above the blade then is would be harder to put any down pressure on the pull stroke but would put more down pressure on the push stroke.

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Re: Wood frame bucksaws

Postby dayle1960 » December 25th, 2016, 1:01 am

Jim, you are a wealth of knowledge. I appreciate your response to my query.
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